On Thursday 26th September 2024 my wife Sigi and I, together with Mike Cahill and Brett Silvester, took off in Mike’s Cirrus MSF in company with four other aircraft for Carnarvon Gorge, the first stop on the Club’s outback flyaway. Sam Keenan flew Piper Cherokee BHN with his daughters Georgia and Ava as passengers, Paul Sneath was accompanied by Lisa in C182 ROC and Bryan Galvin and Garry Ayre took turns at flying C172 RAQ. Originally planning to refuel in Roma at lunchtime, the group decided at a Teams planning meeting the day before departure to depart early and fly further north via Thangool. This route was taken to avoid a band of weather that would deliver significant rainfall to Brisbane over the following weekend. It was a good decision as all we saw was a bit of cloud and shows what a bit of forward planning can achieve.
Our route
After refuelling at Thangool we continued to Ingelara, a cattle property near Carnarvon, that has its own airstrip. On the way we passed over the Moura coal mine.
Moura coal mine
At Ingelara we made sure that the cattle had cleared the runway prior to landing and parked the aircraft on the “apron” in the paddock next to the runway paddock.
Final at Ingelara
I walked up towards the homestead to make a phone call to cancel my sartime via their wife (no mobile coverage out there) and saw a large python cross the track about 30 metres ahead of me. it was as long as the track was wide.
After a bit of rain overnight, the next day dawned as a blue sky day and Michelle took us on a 16km guided walk along the gorge visiting various scenic spots. She was a fountain of knowledge and great tour guide.
On Day 3 of the flyaway Michelle dropped us back at the airstrip after breakfast and we took off for Charleville. First though was a small incident with MSF’s pilot door opening slightly as we lifted off. Cool as a cucumber the captain advised he was returning to land and after a perfectly executed circuit we touched down again gently, demonstrating that an unclosed door is nothing to be concerned about.
After ensuring the door was really closed this time we departed once again for Charleville, enjoying views of the ranges and making it there with no further incident.
Carnarvon GorgeOn final at Charleville
At Charleville we joined in on the ‘Wings Over Warrego’ celebrations and visited the recently completed WW2 secret base museum that tells the story of how 3500 USAF personnel were stationed in Charleville in 1943. After checking into the Mulga Country Motor Inn we settled into the famous bar at the Corones Hotel to watch the Brisbane Lions play a really skillful game against the Sydney Swans. We all know how that ended!
Corones Hotel Bar
Day 4 of the outback flyaway saw us departing Charleville for Lightning Ridge heading for Hebel, a tiny settlement just north of the NSW/QLD border, where we had lunch.
Departing Charleville
The owner of the Hebel Hotel and General Store went broke during COVID and shut it down but a local grazier bought it in 2022 and resurrected it, complete with new cabin type accommodation. They picked us up from the well maintained airstrip that’s about one km out of ‘town’ and dropped us back again. Very atmospheric, great service and a good selection of food.
From Hebel it was a 15 minute hop down to Lightning Ridge, home of the elusive black opal and not so elusive street art. We were picked up by Black Opals Tours, who provided our shuttle to the Lightning Ridge Outback Resort where we were to spend two nights.
For dinner we walked up the road to the Lightning Ridge Bowling Club, an impressively large establishment with reasonable food and wine.
On Day 5 we were taken on a tour of the Ridge by Black Opal Tours. We visited various sites of interest around the town including a house made out of old bottles, a castle erected by an Italian immigrant nicknamed Amigo who didn’t find much opal and turned his hand to stonemasonry, a cactus garden, and an art gallery owned by John Murray, who also painted a lot of the murals around town. We also learned about ‘ratters’, ne’er-do-wells who break in and steal opal from other people’s claims and the horrible fates that they face if they’re caught.
After a sandwich lunch we visited the Chambers of the Black Hand opal mine, where the owner carved 900 sculptures into the sandstone walls 12 metres underground by hand, using a single butter knife. We could then compare his artwork with a number of weird sculptures made out of scrap metal at the yet to open Puttputt place nearby.
As the day drew to a close we relieved any muscle aches we had with a 10 minute dip in the very hot thermal baths before retiring to the pub for a drink and a decent feed.
Day 6 saw us heading for home. After a quick breakfast at the Opal Street Cafe we were dropped at the airport by the Black Opals tour bus. With Sam Keenan leading the way we flew 40 minutes to Moree to top up with fuel. On the way MSF overtook RAQ, ROC and BHD. It’s really difficult to spot other aircraft, even if they’re only a couple of miles away but we managed to track them on OzRunways and AvTraffic so were able to maintain a safe distance while passing.
Passing RAQ
Brett did an overfly of the Moree airport to check the runway for roos leaving it clear for BHD to land first.
Moree
From Moree it was 90 minutes to Redcliffe, passing over miles and miles of green pastures, a new wind farm still under construction, Texas, Warwick, Cunningham’s Gap and Amberley. A C17 Globemaster was doing circuits at Amberley below us so, even though we were at 7000 feet, ATC guided us to the north of their airspace.
There were great views of the city as we descended into Redcliffe.
As we put MSF awa, we removed the last vestiges of the cattle that had been roaming around the runway at Ingelara. It was the end of the outback adventure.
After doing a few days of mountain flying in New Zealand in 2023 I was keen to do some more and learn a bit more about what to do and what not to do when flying at altitude amongst the mountains. There’s no place to do it in Australia but I knew that it’s possible in the Rocky Mountains in the US. I’d also wanted to fly in the US for a while and had plans to visit the EAA Airventure in Wisconsin in 2024 so, wanting to make the most of my trip to the US, decided to add a couple of days of mountain flying training to my itinerary prior to arriving in Oshkosh.
I contacted a few flight schools by email to find out pricing and the types of aircraft they used and decided on flying with Matt Beyer who is based at Rocky Mountains Metro Airport, about 30km north of the Denver city centre. Matt had three days available in the week before AirVenture so I booked two, with the third held in reserve in case of bad weather.
On the ground at Leadville, the highest airport in North America
Matt is about my age and grew up in Denver where he’s spent most of his life. He’s flown around the Rockies since about 1990 so knows the area really well. And he’s survived that long in the mountains so I reckoned there’d be a good chance he’d be safe to fly with. As it turned out he’s also the chief safety officer for the Rocky Mountain Flight School.
So, in early July Brett Silvester and I flew from Brisbane to Los Angeles. I’d originally planned to fly commercial from LA to Denver but after telling Brett of my plans he suggested we do a road trip. As a result, we drove the 1,600km over four days, arriving in Denver the afternoon of the day before the first flying day. That gave us the advantage of getting over jet lag and seeing some amazing country that we’d otherwise never experience.
The first lesson we learned for flying in the mountains was to fly early because the weather often deteriorates in the afternoon and storms build up, so we’d arranged to meet Matt at 6:30am on Day 1. He had the C182 fuelled up and ready to go so after a quick preflight I climbed into the left hand seat with Matt in the right and Brett in the back. Situated at 5670ft MSL as they say in the US the air at Rocky Mountains Metro has a fairly low density, even on a cool morning, so after taxiing to the runup bay I had to lean the mixture to obtain the maximum RPM. This is to ensure the maximum power for takeoff.
RWY30L at Rocky Mountains Airport
We took off to the north west into the clear morning air and climbed slowly to about 12,000 feet. We had to climb that high to cross over the continental divide on the eastern side of the Rockies so we could reach the vast array of mountains to the west. You could tell the 182 was struggling a bit to climb in the thin air with the three of us on board.
Crossing over the continental divide
Surrounded by beautiful mountain scenery we descended into the ski resort of Steamboat Springs, passing over a number of chair lifts that service the ski area.
Short final at Steamboat Springs
The airport had a pleasant FBO (Fixed Base Operator) where I had a good coffee that was even free! The FBO’s are of varying qualities but all have great facilities for itinerant pilots.
After our break at Steamboat we flew over amazing mountain scenery to our next destination. Eagle County airport, that services the Vail ski resort, nestles in a valley next to the I70, the trans Rockies interstate highway. I did a touch and go on the incredibly long runway.
Eagle County Airport
From there it was a short hop over some more mountains to Leadville for another full stop. Leadville is North America’s highest airport at 9934ft MSL and was the site of a lead mine and smelter in earlier days, so two points of interest for a metallurgical engineer turned pilot like me.
Short final at Leadville
I was amazed at how vast the mountainous area is and how much wilderness there is. There are certainly a few towns and ski resorts scattered around and some farming in particular areas but the vast majority is pure wilderness. Amazing!
After obtaining my commemorative certificate for flying into the highest airport, and buying the mandatory t-shirts we made our way back to Denver.
On the way we passed over more wild country and also some grazing land where one of Matt’s friends has a farm with its own strip. Landing just before noon we all agreed it’d been a great morning. There’d been little wind so not much opportunity to practise how to avoid mountain waves and downdrafts but at least the flying had been very smooth. Clouds were forming over the mountains as we tied down the plane and by 3pm that afternoon a major thunderstorm hit with some torrential rain. We were glad we were back out of the mountains.
Day 1 flight plan and actual route
The next day we met Matt at 6:30 again. We took off to the south west this time, once again climbing to about 12,000 ft to make it over a different pass for a flight into Aspen.
Passing over the peaks enroute to Aspen
Now Aspen is really where all the rich and famous hang out and there was a $50 landing fee if you stopped and visited the FBO so we decided to give it a miss.
Ski slopes on descent into Aspen
As I did a touch and go we could see all the private jets lined up along the apron. It was really quite a sight.
From Aspen it was a short hop over to Glenwood Springs where we did a full stop to check out the facilities. On descent our course took us around one mountain and I had to turn to avoid another, negotiating our way down through a valley, and flying past a theme park that was perched high on the side of the mountain we had to avoid. Wouldn’t be good to park the plane in a Ferris wheel on a mountain side would it?
Glenwood Springs
The next leg took us over some real wilderness country and another pass towards Crawford, a short ‘one way’ grass airstrip that belongs to the owner of a private bed and breakfast. On the way Matt suddenly suggested we do a touch and go at Paonia, a short runway plonked on top of a mesa (or jump up), that happened to be on our way. I had to orbit a couple of times to descend a few thousand feet a bit earlier than expected and then headed for the mesa. It was a great experience and what was really interesting was that the runway has a slight kink at each end to enable it to be as long as possible on the surrounding topography.
Paonia
From Pionia it was about 10 minutes to Crawford, where the ‘piano keys’ of the grass strip are located on the edge of a small canyon, making for interesting updrafts on short final. Touching down it was a slight uphill to the BNB at the end. We didn’t have time to stop and chat so turned around and barrelled back the other way to take off over the canyon.
Crawford
Our route then took us over Black Canyon, a smaller version of the Grand Canyon in Arizona, where Matt had taken his family hiking in the past. There were impressive views down the sheer cliff sides to the river below and I could imagine it being a great place to explore on the ground.
Black Canyon
The last stop for the morning was Gunnison, where we checked out the impressive FBO and had a chat to a young refueller who was attending university there. It’s a very outdoorsy university with lots of courses in sports related activities and environmental science etc.
Gunnison
On our way back to Denver we crossed more amazing country with varying amount of wilderness and farmland and forest.
On our return to Denver there was lots of traffic in the ‘pattern’ (ie circuit) so we made a snap decision to do a 10 minute detour around the CBD to kill some time and have some great views of the city centre.
Approaching the Rocky Mountains Airport again the traffic situation hadn’t improved so I had to fly an incredibly long downwind waiting for a ‘slot’ to fit in. The controller sounded like a race caller, issuing non-stop directives to numerous planes taking off and landing. An incredible feat of professional air traffic controlling.
Joining downwind RWY12R at Rocky Mountain Airport
Just as I thought we would have to turn to avoid the mountains ahead he told us to turn base and we followed three other planes in on final. It turned out that the controller had been one of Matt’s students in the past and Matt congratulated him on a job well done after we’d landed.
Day 2 flight plan and actual route
We taxied back to the flight school and celebrated with a group photo. It’d been another great day.
Back at the flight school I paid the bill and noticed a white board showed the variety of aircraft for hire and the surprisingly cheap rates. But they were generally a lot older than the RAC fleet.
Before heading off on to continue our long drive to Wisconsin we reviewed what we’d learned about flying in the mountains. The following are the main tips I brought away.
Weather is even more critical in the mountains. Weather is always a paramount consideration before we go flying but in the mountains the conditions can deteriorate rapidly. It helps to fly early in the day. On both days we flew we had clear blue skies when we arrived at the airport. We took off before 7am both days and flew for over 4 hours each time so were back before 12 o’clock. The weather forecast clouds and storms in the afternoons and sure enough on the first day about 3pm a thunderstorm hit Denver. As we returned from our flight the next day we could see the clouds building in the mountains behind us. You don’t want to be in the mountains once storms start to develop.
Fuel planning is, as always, really important. Matt told us of one recent experience of a pilot who hired a plane from the flight school for a ‘short flight’ that ended up being extended due to weather. The diversions meant he burned a lot more fuel than he expected. By good fuel management he was able to make it back to the airport but only had about 5 litres left in one tank and basically nothing in the other tank when he did touch down! Matt filled up with fuel on both days so we had plenty plus some more for our flights.
Density altitude becomes critical at high altitudes. You need to consider what actual lift you can achieve given the ambient conditions. Both the measured air pressure and air temperature affect the amount of lift you’ll achieve. At higher temperatures the air is less dense so you lose lift. In summer you won’t get as much lift as in winter. You need to calculate whether you will be able to take off from a runway that may be fine on a high pressure day in winter and may not be long enough on a hot day in summer. It may be fine to land but will you get out again?
Lean the engine for best performance prior to take off at high altitude. Denver is at about 5700 ft above sea level so the low air pressure means that there’s not as much oxygen available as at sea level. At full rich mixture it’ll be over rich and the excess fuel will reduce the power delivered by the engine. So, during your run ups lean the mixture and watch as the RPM increases to a point where there’s maximum RPM then enrichen it a couple of complete turns to get it a bit rich of peak RPM. This process ensures you can take off in the minimum distance. Not so critical on a long runway like at Rocky Mountain Metro or Aspen but certainly at short strips like at Crawford.
Recognise pockets of air that have the best lift to help you climb. You need to fly at maximum power the whole time anyway but the higher you go the slower you climb. So, just like in a glider, you need to hunt for those spots with maximum lift and stay away from areas with sink. Work out which way the wind is blowing (from the forecast, looking at the surfaces of lakes, smoke) and then stick to the upwind side of the mountain where the air is rising. If you’re flying along a valley don’t fly up the middle. Fly as close as practical to the upwind side to take advantage of the lift. It will also allow you the maximum radius for a turn if you need to return back down the valley – just in case you can’t make it over the pass at the end.
Approach passes at 45 degrees so that if you can’t make it you have only a 90 degree turn to get away from the mountain. You don’t want to have to negotiate a 180 degree turn in a tight spot.
Watch out for downdrafts and mountain waves. We had minimal wind on the days we flew so there were no major downdrafts and certainly no mountain waves and minimal turbulence. The downside was that there was also minimal lift but that just meant we had to hunt a bit harder to find the lift we needed to get over the high passes.
There is a limit to how high you can fly with a given engine. At high altitude the ‘thin air’ (low oxygen partial pressure) results in lower engine performance. A Cessna 182 at maximum weight has real trouble climbing when you get up over 13,000ft like we did.
Keep an eye on your airspeed and decide on the minimum speed you’ll accept to stay above the stall speed. Matt specified 70 knots for the 182. If you can’t climb over a pass without reducing the speed below that then turn around and try another pass (or go home).
Know your aircraft. A Cessna 152 has much less power than a 182 or a 172 so is not really suited to mountain flying. They are cheap to buy and operate however, so flight schools still use them for routine training. Rocky Mountain Flight School owns one C152 in which the second seat has been taken out to minimise its weight so student pilots can build the 1500 hours minimum they require to apply for jobs at the airlines as cheaply as possible. But it’s not intended for flying in the mountains. Matt told us the story of one student pilot who did take it to the mountains on 4th July this year (just two weeks before our flights) and very nearly killed himself trying to fly over the continental divide near where we flew over it. The location was where we were but we decided to fly over a different pass a bit further to the north as we couldn’t get enough lift to get over that particular pass in our 182. The student’s resultant stall and nose dive followed by miraculous escape were captured on mobile phone video taken by a family that was hiking nearby (see screenshot below) and went viral on the internet.
Matt shared with us a video posted by one of his ‘favourite YouTube people’ that you can access via the QR code or the link below. He analyses the video and talks about the incident. As Matt said, ‘It’s just nuts.’
Another useful hint Matt gave me that’s unrelated to mountain flying is keep to one side of the centreline of a sealed runway when backtracking rather than taxiing down the centre. When you’re off centre you’re more likely to be spotted by any aircraft who may be on approach.
I can’t recommend Matt highly enough. If you’re in the US and want to improve your mountain flying skills get in contact with him.